2017 Domaine Guion Bourgueil “Cuvee Domaine”

 
This review from Wine Warehouse (in Charlottesville, VA) says it all: “It's hard to declare a winery as your favorite from a region like the Loire, with so many unique styles running the length of the river. But in an area where organic/Biodynamic agriculture and winemaking has flourished over the last few decades this estate has the distinct recognition as a leader in both aspects. A polycultural farm since the 1950s with a more expanded emphasis on wine since the 1990s, the Domaine is able to function almost completely 'off the grid' to grow and produce their wine, livestock, and other crops. Everything feeds and fertilizes the other parts of the farm, all tended by the family. The family only makes two wines; both Cabernet Franc, one from their older parcel planted just before World War II, the second (this one) from the newer parcel planted in the 1990s and raised in tank. Also, as this is just a part of the family's means of support, the pricing is extremely fair for the quality.

“After an extremely difficult 2016 vintage that saw both quality and quantity issues in Bourgueil, 2017 brings a return to prime form with a deep, dark vintage that provides lots of smoky violets and dark cherry skin aromas, with no signs of any green tones that plagued the region in the past and the tougher years. The palate is lighter in texture than the aromas would suggest, but is by no means thin as the natural savory flavors and tart cranberry tones really push through on the finish. The absence of oak aging here also lets the younger vines show the lighter tannins and less saturated fruits in a very easy, elegant manner. A nice quenching red wine that will perform well with hearty soups, stews, savory roast chicken, and slow cooked 'comfort foods' of the cooler months.” It’s available for about $15.50 in at least one store.

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