A Super Super Tuscan

 
Some of Italy’s highest-rated and most-expensive wines are “super Tuscans”; i.e., Bordeaux-like blends that typically include Sangiovese – the Italian wine staple – as well as Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, among others. The 2015 Zingari fills the bill, comprising Merlot, Sangiovese, Syrah, and Petit Verdot. A bottle can be purchased for less than $13, which typically raises eyebrows: Sure, the label’s cool, but what does it taste like? James Suckling – a will-known reviewer who, in my opinion, too often rates too high – gave the wine a 94 rating; sky high for a wine that costs so little. According to Suckling, “Beautiful aromas of cherries, dark chocolate and lemon rind, following through to a full body with round and chewy tannins. Yet, it is polished and soft. A juicy finish.” And Bruce Sanderson, of the Wine Spectator, more or less agreed: “Bright, ripe cherry and plum fruit flavors offset the savory tobacco, earth and herb notes in this plump red, which is balanced despite the exuberant tannins, while vivid acidity keeps the long aftertaste focused. Best from 2022 through 2033.” Despite the fact that the two reviews seem to focus on different wines, both agreed on “Good,” with Sanderson laying a quite-high 92 points on the blend. I ordered a few bottles for tasting and did not wait until 2022. I also didn’t let the wine breathe, because I wanted to taste it as it evolved with exposure to air. It started off a bit dry, with tannins evident. Then it began to mellow, and it really came around to juicy, flavorful smoothness after about an hour of air. Bottom line: I give the brass ring to Suckling. I think he got it just right. Mmmmmmmm.

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